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MedioEvo Universalis

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Joined: 07/26/2008
The prototype at the convention PLAY 2012

MedioEvo Universalis was born by mistake and definitely a necessity for us (I and all my friends) to play all together rather than in 2 or 3 separate groups.

It has evolved over time thanks to my friends "canottieri" who have spent hundreds ... yeah, calculating that we started in the 80's ... thousands of hours playing with me.

We have always been fascinated by the idea of trade to be able to manage and buy means/armed/fortifications and not have the resources automatically as in other games.
If you think that we start with the map and cards of Marco Polo (Clementoni), tanks of Risiko and money of Monopolies ... we made very long road.

Already then we had introduced the cards to attack and to defense, calamities, random events ... computers as we know now not existed yet (only the commodore 64 and early PC 8086 and 8088), so we "stolen" any game canned in my possession for exploit, if possible, the components and perhaps give its meanings sometimes completely different ... we had arrived at use a deck of mixed cards that exceeded calmly 300.

I thing we have tried and plytested everything:

- add Shogun units for special combat units

- miniatures of Civilization to try diplomacy with emissaries that physically moved on the map

- using sticky notes exchanged among the players

- locked alliances, 2, 3, to areas, random and so on

- 2 and even 3 parallel systems of coins, maybe an exchange for goods and armies

- calamities managed/controlled by players

- various historical periods and not ... the game for a short period had taken the way of the Napoleonic period (I had already bought 3 boxes of Napoleon in Europe to prepare myself)

- a player extra whitch became GM and/or banker

- infinite number of units and not

- 4 types of maps completely different ... it was also preparing a map "universal" (3600x1800 mm.) that could be used both for this prototype that for other boardgames (Risiko and axis & Allies for example), but always scale to 10 players.

- and much more ...

Many ideas inside my mind that already more than 2 years ago we write to try to implement some aspects of the game ... I still have the 2 sheets of Zamein with at least some forty notes and/or suggestions:

- new combat system, it is our main strengths, we would like to create a similar system and simple, yet completely different

- custom cards about COMMANDER, like previous characters as Richard the Lionheart, Saladin etc etc

- strategic cards combined expertise of the FLAG to implement combat bonus, like Hannibal: Rome vs. Carthage

- adding diplomatic options like type regal marriages

- and so on...

Everything that you see in this prototype is the rationalisation of what we invented, copied or modified by other boardgames or PC games. The same maps that were created in 1999, still in use since today, were the summary of that super deck of 300 cards used for previous 12-15 years.

Currently the game can be defined as a managerial one, set in the medieval period, more precisely in 1265.
Considering that a full round is equivalent to approximately 1-2 months real time, the longest matches don't go over 5 years ... also because historically Europe 5 years later would already be quite different.

Each player has to start match one of the major Kingdoms of the era:
Kingdom Almohad
Kingdom Mamluks
Horde gold
Byzantine Empire
Novgorod Republic
Kingdom of Hungary
Holy Roman Empire
Kingdom of France
Kingdom of Castile
Kingdom of England

Map is modular, divided in SET1 according to play up to 5-6 players and 2 EXPANSIONS to play up to 10! The player has available land and sea units to trade 8 different types of goods in 36 cities on the map, so fiorini obtained can be invested to increase the cities, building fortifications, buy new units, recruit new General, build siege machines or new cathedrals/mosques to have more control over the population, specialize the cities in a commercial sector, and more.

With fiorini also you can buy technologies to improve some aspects of the game; technologies are divided into 5 kinds, up to 3 layers, so if I will have STREETS, I must buy ARCHITECTURE and MATHEMATICS before yet.
The technologies also help me to eliminate or reduce the effects of CALAMITIES: MEDICINA against PLAGUE, AGRICULTURE against FAMINE, etc etc etc.

There are also game cards, named EMPIRE that allow the player to do more things: spying your opponent's cards, earn more by trade, taxing better territories, ask truce during a war, get bonuses during attack or defence etc etc etc.
Many of these cards have combinations with technologies, for example the GENIUS has + 1 bonus during attack or defence, but if it is accompanied by the ENGINEERING he take + 2 bonus... and so on... MERCHANT with COINS, TEMPLARE with MONOTHEISM, MERCENARY with ARMY etc etc etc.

As you may have noticed, I used the colors to help you learn many components of game, there are references and descriptions on each card and also I inserted in front of the player a summary of the game turn and 3 summary tables of classic 50 questions that a player always stolen ... so I have dramatically reduced learning time and in fact, when I played with my friends younger (13-14 years) the thing was very useful.


In addition to CALAMITIES cards there are random events which affect only 1 areas of the map; I added other units on the map, the neutral (or dead, barbarian, as you prefer), which with 4 simple automatic rules can expand its neighbours or attack weaker player or rebel territories with low defense... to move even more the game.

The territories have 5 different terrain types: plain, hill, forest, mountain, desert and in addition the rivers ... all this leads to limits of population or costs in movement.

Also diplomacy: there are 6 diplomatic options that can be broken at any time (so look back!), obviously players take consequences (for example, if a player Christian declares war to another Christian would almost certainly the excommunication of the Pope and therefore would fall out of favor).

The sequence of players is random, if now you are the 1st, in the next turn you could be the 3rd or last ... pay attention to your enemies!

Object of the game is to get as many HONOR POINTS ... during the game, depending on what you do, you may gain or lose HONOR POINTS.
So you can play: by TIME, with a MAX NUMBER of points to reach or with a defined number of TURNS.


Joined: 02/01/2013

This looks incredible. It's like Medieval Total War on a board and for 6 players.
What are your plans for bringing this to the US? What is the average play time? The pieces (knights, boats, etc) look great; are they made for the game or did you bring in models from other games/toys to the prototype you have shown? Do you have an english rule set?

The game looks beautiful, the ideas sound grand, but I'm worried that as a player I will be managing too much and that the play time would be too long.

Joined: 07/26/2008
silasmolino wrote:This looks

silasmolino wrote:
This looks incredible. It's like Medieval Total War on a board and for 6 players.

THX silasmolino.
Yes, MU is a boardgame of commerce, diplomacy, strategy and conquest set in the XIII century; players will have to manage one of the great Kingdoms.

silasmolino wrote:
What are your plans for bringing this to the US?

Ahahahah, I don't know, sorry :p

silasmolino wrote:
What is the average play time?

Well, the average time is about 4 hours with 3 players (3 is the minimum number of players), about 6 hours with 5 players (I have divided the game into 2 boxes, BASE set and EXPANSION set, 5 players each set, so maximum 5 players with BASE set and since 10 players with EXPANSION set).
Goal: get the most Honor Points from the various aspects of the game as: military expansion, killing an enemy General, conquering a Kingdom, winning a Crusade, completing a mission… however players can lose Honor Points if lose a Crusade, make betrayal and so on.

silasmolino wrote:
The pieces (knights, boats, etc) look great; are they made for the game or did you bring in models from other games/toys to the prototype you have shown?

The first prototype of 1999 is completely made of other games/toys, then from 2007 I started to create pieces dedicated, such as ships, goods, armies and so on... some pieces are still other games (Serenissima, Shogun, Civilization, Anno Domini, ecc.).

silasmolino wrote:
Do you have an english rule set?

No, sorry, I have only italian version, but it isn't complete. I start to write rule inside my forum but it is an outdated version, I already have several simplified rules.

silasmolino wrote:
The game looks beautiful, the ideas sound grand, but I'm worried that as a player I will be managing too much and that the play time would be too long.

THX again, I understand what do you mean, but I try to explain my point of view...

- Very interesting thing is the definition of COMPLEXITY by Frank Chadwick (historian author command Decision):
"more than one player COMMAND DECISON veteran, when he felt that I was working on a new edition with simplified mechanical, has expressed doubts that I was 'making'. In my view, this aspect derives partly from the fact that the term 'complexity' became the most abused and not included in the terminology of the game.
We were invariably say that this game is 'too complex', or that this game is for beginners because it is not too complex.
All this points to a lack of understanding of how does each game work and why do people play them.
The only thing important about whether a game is attractive or not, is its complexity. If is not complex, nobody plays.
Chess have lasted for centuries because they are a game of an almost infinite complexity. Poker remains fascinating because the unknown combination of cards and game styles of multiple players, they are equally a game of infinite complexity. All games of resistance passionately because are very complicated. And how these games are not complicated! The complicated of mechanical is what usually is patently wrong error for complexity, and this is more of a simple problem of semantics.
Since we we abuse of the word complexity related to the game, with both meanings, developers often really reduces the complexity when trying to make a game not complicated, with the result that becomes really "commoditized" – boring and unattractive.
But few people would consider chess be a trivial game despite the simplicity of its mechanical properties.
When we say that COMMAND DECISON is too difficult to play, we're not saying that is too complex. Anyone who has played with command DECISON knows that the complexity of the interaction of various weapons, the different degrees of moral, the different levels of quality of troops, is what makes one so rich gaming experience. Instead what we mean is simply that its mechanisms are too complicated. And so, how can we reduce the complicated without complexity? Since I have examined the rules COMMAND DECISON, I was impressed by the fact that no rule was terribly difficult or complicated individually. The game was pretty complicated from simple mass mechanics separate subsystems. A rule was used to direct heat anti-tank. A completely different mechanical system was used to fire arms. Another completely different for localization. Another different for the request of the artillery. Another for air support. Whenever something else happened on the table, players overall had to invoke collectively a different context of rules. The tool for which CD3™ reduces the complicated while maintaining accuracy and complexity is very simple. Uses a single game mechanics to cover the above conditions."

- My prototype is complex, but not complicated, the rules are very simple to learn, in fact many of my friends were 13 years old in 1999... no one has ever had problems to play.
The game has a very high longevity, the combo between the various components of the game are many and allow you to create complex and very different strategies in each game.

- I used all the tricks possible and imaginable to simplify learning the game, the recognition and use of the parts.
I used different colors for each deck, the name of all cards are written anywhere with their color so the players know if that name refers to the deck DISASTERS, EMPIRE, TECHNOLOGY and so on.

I create a panel in front of each player with all the basic rules and the sequence of the game turn, so all players, after 1° turn, are able to fend for themselves.

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 80s

The idea we came to the end of the 80s: to create a boardgame management consists of the games that we had.

The first version of this game was primarily composed of following components:
- Map of Marco Polo (Ravensburger)
- Tabulation of trade of Marco Polo
- Event deck of Marco Polo
- Deck of cards attack and defense of Marco Polo
- Monopoly money
- Tanks of Risk
- dice of Risk

Some features:
- cities were chosen 1 at a time by players at begining by following the sequence of the game, but instead (starting from last to first).
- The armies were placed in 36 cities.
- The movement had to follow the various maritime and land routes indicated on map
- You could create "roadblocks" on these routes, but everything that was outside of the city were exposed to attack's cards from other players.
- There were no limits about armies, transport units and gold coins.
- Objective of the game, I think to remember, was the conquest of a defined number of cities.

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: initial study

In 1999 I taken the decision to create a more serious boardgame... it took me 1 whole year to put together all the rules, combos and ideas gained during the games with the old prototype.

Collection of ideas:

Means of transport, ability to move, goods transport and armed:

Types of land, moving cost and limit overpopulation:

Limit overpopulation:

Study of the EMPIRE deck:

Study of the balance of attack and defense cards in the EMPIRE deck:

Calculation of the amount of cards in the EMPIRE deck:

Study of CALAMITIES cards and theirs combo:

Probability calculations with roll of 2D6 for CALAMITIES, random EVENTS and BARBARIANS:

Split into groups of TECHNOLOGIES cards:

Summary table of all the TECHNOLOGIES cards and all the EMPIRE cards:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: graphical map

In 1999 I did not know very well use the computer, and certainly there were no coputer today... I'm not a graphic... so I arranged.
I should note that at that time I did not care that the map was historical, I was interested that the game worked ... then I took a lot of artistic freedom.

I created screenshots of the map of the game Europa Universalis like this:

Then I joined them creating a giant map:

Then I cropped and resized for my needs, for example zooming England and shrinking Africa:

I cleaned up the map and I fixed the boundaries of the territories:

I created the boundaries of kingdoms with line widths larger:

I colored areas of the map depending on the 5 religions that I wanted: Christians, Protestants, Orthodox Christians, Shiites and Sunnis.

I added a map to the outer perimeter of 15 cm where to put the pieces of the game, the cards, sandwiches and drinks:

I used the icons of some PC games to represent the city:

And I used the icons of some PC games to represent the various types of terrain:

Numbers and letters to identify the 5 zones of land and 8 sea areas:

Names of the Kingdoms major, minor kingdoms and cities:

I added some graphics to beautify the map:

The upper right of the map was used to support the decks of cards and dice:

Same thing at the bottom center of the map:

The map at the end looked like this:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: trade

The trading system was very simple and very similar to that of Marco Polo (Ravensburger).
Having decided on the location of the city (2 for 1 for the Kingdoms Major and minor kingdoms, positioned in areas not adjacent to each other)...

... I chose 8 types of goods for each commodity and decided what was the city with the highest price and the one with the lowest price.

The price of all goods in all other cities was given by a base value multiplied by the distance from the city with the lowest price.
This is the final table trade, up there are 8 goods, in the left column there are all the cities and for every good there are 2 columns, the first column with the purchase prices and the second with the selling prices; highlighted in orange the best purchase price and in blue the best selling price:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: decks

Again I had arranged with the images of other games, then assembled as I liked:

Here a card of EMPIRE deck (blu):

Here examples of the other decks, CALAMITIES (red), TECHNOLOGY (green), EVENTS (yellow)... In the descriptions of the cards (text below) you can see the colorful references to names of other cards of different decks:

This is the table of technological advancement, the cards are divided into families and each family spread over a maximum of 3 levels (the yellow lines join together levels):

These are the 5 decks of cards for technological advancement:

Some cards in the EMPIRE deck:

Some cards in the CALAMITIES deck:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: other components

To complete the prototype I created and / or modified other components:

11 colors for the armies (10 players + the barbarians who have automatic rules to expand, attack and even win 1 time):

The panel player with some tables summarizing the rules you use most:

The flags for the means of transport:

Money from Serenissima and Anno Domini, trade ships from Serenissima, swords and General from Shogun, cities and warships and means of siege from Civilization, fortifications from Anno Domini and Serenissima and Shogun, and so on...

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Evolution of the prototype 1999: finished

We played with the prototype version of 1999 for 4-5 years every weekend. There were several changes in the rules and in the balance of the cards, however, the prototype remained so until 2007:

More photos of this version:

In 2008 I started working on the new version...

talmorgoth's picture
Joined: 02/03/2011

This looks awesome. I love the dice trays with the rules on a divider. Where did you get them?

Joined: 07/26/2008
talmorgoth wrote:This looks

talmorgoth wrote:
This looks awesome. I love the dice trays with the rules on a divider. Where did you get them?

They were in the game Shogun, later renamed Samurai Swords:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: historical research

I try to summarize the evolution of the map in these 4 years, I've redone 3 times because as was fine-tuning of the Kingdoms historical research and the boundaries of the territories.
Obviously I could not keep the Kingdoms smaller because of the scale of the map and for the same reason I had to enlarge some areas.

The previous version of the game was not historic, so the first problem was to decide on the historical period in which to set the game ... I was very tempted by the Napoleonic period, but at that time there were not enough Kingdoms for 10 players.
So I started the first historical research, avoiding the ancient period until the fall of the Roman Empire.





In the end I chose the thirteenth century, more precisely 1265. At that time, the kingdoms were constantly changing, I know, but it will be the players to make history.

Other historical maps:

After a first version of the map, I started a more in-depth historical research to fix many blunders, for example:

- Ireland

- Empire Byzantine

- Sultanate of Rum

- Ghaniya

- The Republic of Genoa

- Teutonic Order

- Galicia–Volinia

- Golden Horde

- Kingdom of Bohemia

- Sultanate Mameluk

- Holy Roman Empire

... and so on...

This is an old version of historical research:

Some people helped me by making corrections like these:

Lately I've also used to help the map of PC game Crusader Kings II, very useful for correcting a few small error:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: heraldry

In 2009 I decided to add the heraldry on the map, I thought it was a pretty easy thing, however proved to be a very complicated and lengthy research.
The coats I needed were not a few, in the historical period under consideration (about 1265), Europe was divided into many kingdoms ... here is the list (I removed the Kingdoms too small that I could not be on the map):

Regno di Serbia
Contea della Provenza
Regno di Granada
Regno di Gwynedd
Regni di Irlanda
Regno di Boemia

Ducato di Slesia
Granducato di Cracovia
Ducato di Polonia
Ducato di Pomerania
IMPERO BIZANTINO (dopo la riconquista da parte dell'Impero di Nicea)

Impero di Trebisonda
SULTANATO DI RUM (turchi Selgiuchidi)
Regno di Gerusalemme
Regno della Georgia
Regno Armeno di Cilicia
Principato di Antiochia
Contea di Tripoli


2 people have helped me a lot: "Silverwolf" (degree in medieval history) and "The Housekeeper" (a modder of Bellum Crucis).

I started a first search asking advice each time on which coat of arms to use and which to discard, some examples:

At the end of 2009 I have these coats of arms...
... but I was not satisfied, so I started a more thorough search to correct a mistake.

For example, the coast of arms of the Russian principalities:

Or coast of arms of Ulster:

At the end of 2011 I fixed these:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: graphic

I do a summary of the evolution of graphic design starting from the old map of 1999 cleaned up:

The territories this time had to be a little bigger because I used the thumbnail 1:72, so I had to reduce the area of play:

While the map of 2008 was still only 1 piece in 2010 I decided to divide it into 2 parts and create 2 boxes of the game, the box BASE (up to 5 players) and the expansion box (up to 10 players) ... so the red and the green zone would be the expansions:

In this way I could decide the position of the decks on the map:

In the background I used 4 colors to distinguish the 4 areas of the zones of land:

I have prepared a scheme of texture to color the Kingdoms:

First I colored the major Kingdoms with the colors of the armies...

Then I colored the minor Kingdoms:

To decide the location of hills, mountains, forests and deserts, I searched the internet maps such as these:

I have prepared a scheme to decide which territories were hilly, mountainous, forest or desert:

These are the symbols that I have chosen to describe the various types of territories, the plain is no symbol:

Then I prepared another scheme where I decided on the name of the territories and the position of the cities:

For the cities I used pictures of some PC games like Age of Empires or Cossaks, first I made a collection...
... then I chose the 36 symbols:

The names of the cities have the same color of the areas of land:

Same thing for the names of the Kingdoms...

... and anchors to indicate the harbors:

Here is a detail after you have added all the graphic objects on the map:

I remade the wind rose...

... and areas where to place the decks:

At the end of 2011 i fixed some areas, 2 examples:



Finally, here is the evolution of the map:





More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: the angel

I wanted an angel on the map to replace the borrowed PC game Europa Universalis:

Until 2009 I used that, but it was time to change it ... a friend had made ​​a drawing, but unfortunately there was absolutely fine with the graphics on the map:

Then I met Rhodry, an artist ( who agreed to draw me an angel.
First she made me choose the type of face...
... and body posture

Then he created the sketches:

And finally drew it exactly as I had imagined, very good!

Color it was more difficult, Rhodry not using the computer for work and so did her friend ... here some trials of color:

The only change I did was change the eyes:


More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: study the assembly

After many versions that I am not here to enumerate, I had achieved a good map division:

By removing one by one the various expansions, at the end you get to the map of the game for 3-5 players inside the box BASE:

In the latest version of the map I tweaked the divisions so you can choose to play with the green expansion rather than yellow expansion:

Exaggerating, I could reduce the area of ​​the box BASE for 3-4 players and increase the number of expansions:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The map from 2008 to 2011: the assembly


1 - Assemblage of the cardboard base for the map

10 sheets of cardboard (adequate size and thickness, in my case 700x500mm, 1.5 mm thick)
1 roll of transparent tape
1 roll of reinforced tape
1 roll of paper tape
Ruler or tape measure

The main problem is fitting a 1420x1080mm map in a 305mm wide box, so it has to be folded in a certain way.
The previous maps were folded in 2 ways: in 4 (classic method used in most cases) or in 8 (first longways and then like an accordion). This time the 1420mm of length didn’t allow me either solution…so I decided to fold it 10 times, first like an accordion, then longways, as shown in the photo.

At this point you trace on the cardboard the size of these 10 folds, using a pencil and a ruler.

Then you cut with the cutter (not the scissors because the cardboard is too thick and it is difficult, whereas with the cutter the first cut is slow and precise along the pencil line and then you can cut more energetically without being afraid of making a mistake, and the result is a lot more precise).

You position the 10 pieces side by side to create a surface as big as the map, and start thinking how you are going to fold them (trust me, it is better to think beforehand and more than once!)...

… then you start “blocking” the pieces of cardboard with little cuts of paper tape (don’t put it too firmly, you have to take it off) and then the resistant sticky tape (careful with the directions of the fold, one each way!)

So, the folds on one side have the resistant sticky tape, while on the other side there is the transparent “soft” tape, which allows the map to be opened and closed hundreds of times without ruining it.

Use the scissors handle to stick the tape firmly onto the cardboard (if you don’t, in a year’s time it will fall apart!).


2 - Putting the map on the foldable cardboard base

I asked a graphic designer to print the map, 300 dpi quality, opaque on top, adhesive underneath.
First of all I covered the edges of the cardboard base with reinforced tape, which also blocked the folds on the base.
Then I put the map on top, I checked it was perfectly in place and then fixed it to the table with paper tape.
Plus the map is big, more you must wait (maybe even a whole day) for the creases and folds to go away.
Now take the paper tape off on one side of the map (1/3 of the total length), and leave the rest attached to the table.
Open the lower film and cut it as far as you can (1/3 approximately) so you free the adhesive part under the map.

Now is an important stage: put the “free” portion of the map on the cardboard base…2 people is better, one keeps the corner of the map up, the second slowly and delicately puts it down… do not use your hands or the scissor handle, it’s better if you have a sponge or a towel (preferably damp). Repeat the operation with the other side of the map.
I apologize for this single photo, but I was alone and had to manage (standing on the table, using hands and feet and balancing myself…)

Now be careful!!! With the cutter you have to cut along the cardboard edges without ruining the map or the reinforced tape on the opposite side…careful…careful!!! Make sure you know where you’re cutting, keep the cardboard straight and…go!




1 - Assemblage of the cardboard base for the map

I took 4 sheets of cardboard sp. 2 mm. and I leaning over the laminate panels. The blocks of wood I will need to align cardboard and laminate. In the picture below I have already cut the cardboard in the bottom right corner to show you the 2 steps:

Here the step of cutting the cardboard is completed:

I was undecided whether to merge the board and laminated with glue or double sided adhesive tape ... I have not trusted because the glue would not come off in the long run ... this support is supposed to be the final version and deluxe, if I were to redo the map, it will attack again above here:

2 - Putting the map on the foldable cardboard base

Panel below the map and still rolled over, as you can see there is only one junction on the upper side of the panel, the others are all below... This detail not to make the map much more beautiful to look at once the work... also clears blemishes and wrinkles that are created when the map folds in on itself.

Map unrolled on the panel:

Fixing map on the shelf ... this time I added an extra edge in the press that will be the flap on the rear panel ... this device I reset the protection times of the edges with other material, the structure is more robust and aesthetically is fine ... against the alignment of the map on the panel below is a little more difficult, but nothing complicated.
I leave it all so 1 hour to reduce the tensions of the press:

Then half free map from the paper tape that keeps her locked extension and the protective film on the back:

Damp cloth to roll out the map, it helps to eliminate air bubbles ... notice that I put on the right side of the adhesive sheets of gray duct tape that is used for bending ... I put these sheets to halve the gap the thickness of duct tape, instead of having 1 step I have 2 more thin that they are less noticeable once stretched the map:

Done attacking the map on the panel:

Accommodation edges with even the whole entire map:

Cutting with the cutter of the various sections of the map ... this time I had to put a shim under the fold to highlight the cutting line because the panel under laminate is too precise and tough and would not allow the passage of the blade:

Map BASE folded to the left and map EXPANSION folded to the right:

Map divided ... with the new modular division can create different situations play area:
Only BASE: 3-5 players
BASE +1 expansion top 6 players (6th Novgorod)
BASE +1 expansion left: 6 players (6th French)
BASE +2 expansions left: 8 players (Spanish 7th, 8th Berbers)
BASE + EXPANSIONS: 10 players

Highlights a fold of panels:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The creation of LOGO

I began to think of the logo in 2008, but only in 2009 I had the right idea.
I started from this image of Europa Universalis:

Then I replaced the word "Europe" with "MedioEvo":

And finally I edged with yellow, the word "Universalis" to stand out better ... added 2 crossed swords (1 Christian and 1 Muslim) in the background that give an idea of what the boardgame is:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The BOX from 2008 to 2011: space calculation in 2008

In 2008 I wanted to create the game box, one box that contained all the components.
I had decided to divide the components on 2 levels...

Level down:

Level up:

Finished Size:
300x620 mm. internal box
320x640 mm. external cover
145 mm. total height

Joined: 07/26/2008
The BOX from 2008 to 2011: space calculation in 2010

In 2009 I decided to split the game into 2 equal parts, tea, and complimentary EXPANSION BASE.
So I decided to create 2 boxes and I was forced to reorganize the space in every single box.

This is a simulation of how to divide the space for each player:

Here an initial calculation of size: I have taken into account the thickness of the material that I used, the air to leave between a box and the other, and also to facilitate the extraction of the cover:

And here all calculations to build a double wooden box for both the sets:

Each set would occupy an internal volume of 546x311x130 mm. divided in 3 levels (lower level to the boxes of the players, the middle level for the components in common and the bases player, top level for the map and tables).

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The BOX from 2008 to 2011: external graphics 2009

Well, the first attempt in 2008 was fairly simple and obvious, I had little time and little desire to prepare it:

In 2009 I tried to improve the graphics of the cover:

As a background image for the lower part of the box I used the same of the cover, but much more faded ... the end result was this:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The BOX from 2008 to 2011: external graphics 2010

In 2010 I prepared the graphics for the 2 boxes, base set & Sets expansion.

As in 2009, I used images of Dore to adorn the sides of the boxes, but this time were larger:

On the bottom is listed the contents of the boxes (different for each box).

I am currently still using these boxes, but I'd change them and make them more beautiful.

More info 2008:
More info 2010:

Joined: 10/09/2013

I'm in slack-jaw-awe right now. That board looks gorgeous. I loved old Medieval Total War and this looks downright fun. If I was able to find time I'd playtest it! I mean that game just looks amazing! I know where you got a lot of your city icons too. Cossacks was my favorite computer game ever.

Joined: 07/26/2008
The BOX: the assembly

Material necessary? Always the same, this time however I have used a cardboard Sp. 2 mm. very harder and rigid. You have to remember Only you 2 things:
1 - the cover is more great of the box (obvious you will say you), but you keep in mind the thickness of the cardboard that use and that you will have to leave at least 1 mm. of air between the external perimeter of the box and the inside perimeter of the cover.
2 - the press that will cover box and cover will have to keep in mind of the thickness of the cardboard, therefore in my case it will be wider and longer than 2 mm. on every side.

You traces with the pencil the perimeter and the folds of the box...

With the cutter remove the parts of superfluous cardboard, remember the first passage: light and precise...

To engrave only the folds of the box for halves the thickness of the cardboard, even to position the blade of the cutter to the first tag, to hold tilts it so that the blade you penetrate only 1 mm. this way the incision will be homogeneous...

To fold up the 4 sides and to unite them with adhesive "soft"...

Now the beautiful one comes: to dress again the cover of the box so gotten...

I have made it stamp as the map, adhesive under and varnished opaque above, I have not made it trim, I will do it me now leaving a white edge of 10 mm. around 4 sides (they need for the lapel and a pinch of aesthetics)

Now you don't remove the protection on the adhesive side of the press yet, but you start to center this last on the box, throwing and then fixing the position with the adhesive paper here and there...

You fix a half the press to the box...

you cut to 45° the 4 edges of the press (you can do later also it if you are not experienced, otherwise you risk that they stick you between them parts of the press or worse still on the cardboard)

and then he proceeds as explained with the map, first to free half protection on the adhesive side...

him "it smears" on the box in homogeneous way...

go away the parts in excess...

and Energetic revision with the handle of the scissors on the inside lapel (with the closed point, instead, to cross again well the angles)

To repeat the whole procedure with the other halves the box...


These are the last version:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
The double WOODEN BOX
Joined: 07/26/2008
Small boxes: 2008 version

Material necessary? Always the same but cardboard Sp. 1.5 mm., additionally bi-adhesive ribbon, a roll of adhesive transparent PVC and a "plastificatore?? don't know the english word".

the presses this time they are on a normal sheets of paper (more economic), they go therefore protected with the adhesive transparent PVC (all it takes is slightly cutting strips a bit more large of the zone to cover)

they make him pass inside plastificatore, so the PVC sticks in way uniform and the color it is more alive

the pillboxes are prepared...

the bi-adhesive ribbon is positioned on all the funds...

you must center the press on the fund. Then, bla bla bla ... and here I show you in an only photo the various passages, DONE:

More info:

Joined: 07/26/2008
Small boxes: 2010 version

This time I chose the laminate thickness of 1.2 mm to make small boxes.
Here all the material just cut:

Here is a picture of the 2 experiments, in front of hot glue, PVA glue behind:

Here's what I did ... I made a template to support the 5 sides of the box:

I beveled the template to prevent it incollasse to 5 sides:

I attaches on the bottom of the template 8 paper tape:

Settle the first 2 sides of the box on the template and block them with paper tape:

PVA glue on the edges:

Settle other 2 sides of the box on the template and block them with paper tape:

After 5 min I can loosen the upper paper tape...

... put PVA glue on the edges...

and settle the last side of the box:

After 5 min I remove the template:

I put PVA glue on the external edges:


More info:

lewpuls's picture
Joined: 04/04/2009

This is clearly a labor of love. And it does look awesome. Which usually means, it would be very expensive to mass produce. It also looks like it is likely a very long game. At some point you could say, "isn't this really a computer game?" All that added together means, if it is to be published, it's likely in a Kickstarted version costing three figures of dollars. It does not appear to be commercially viable for a traditional publisher, because of the expense of production and limited market appeal.

Of course, you can enjoy praise and enjoy playing without concerning yourself with commercial publication.

Joined: 07/26/2008

lewpuls wrote:
This is clearly a labor of love. And it does look awesome. Which usually means, it would be very expensive to mass produce. It also looks like it is likely a very long game. At some point you could say, "isn't this really a computer game?" All that added together means, if it is to be published, it's likely in a Kickstarted version costing three figures of dollars. It does not appear to be commercially viable for a traditional publisher, because of the expense of production and limited market appeal.

Of course, you can enjoy praise and enjoy playing without concerning yourself with commercial publication.

Thanks for the compliments :)

As far as my prototype is divided into 2 parts:
- Set BASIC, with a reduced map and up to 5 players
- Set EXPANSION, with 4 pieces of map to be added to progressively increase the number of players up to 10

The set BASE would certainly be marketed, if successful you could think of to market the set EXPANSION, maybe divided into 5 smaller parts to facilitate their sale.
In addition, this version that I created is deluxe, surely the publisher would not use noble materials such as wood and metal, and the miniatures would be one color.
Or just use the miniatures 1/100 scale instead of 1/72 to significantly reduce the size of the map.
etc etc ... I think that publishers are able to do their job.
An Italian publisher has made ​​an assumption for the set BASE not deluxe, it should cost about 80 €.

About long game... The length of the game depends on the objective: HONOR POINT.
During the game you can gain or lose HONOR POINT depending on what you do: conquer an enemy city, destroying a fleet or army, betraying an ally or ally themselves with a player of different religion, become the Pope, lose a crusade, owning multiple 1000 florins, etc etc ... at the end of the game there are some additional HONOR POINT to the conquered territories.
So, you can make a game with time limit (3 or 4 hours for example, stop and count HONOR POINT) or decide a max number of HONOR POINT to gain (50 - 100 or more).
The game becomes more interesting as time goes on because increase the combinations with the technologies acquired and the diplomatic part becomes very intriguing and full of twists.
I think that to make a beautiful and complete 3-player game it takes 3-4 hours, 5-6 hours with 5 players (we have played for about 4-5 years in 8-10 players, the games lasted 2 days)... with the HONOR POINT system, you could do a game of only 2 hours.

Joined: 10/09/2013
Conversion Factor

80 Euros...Yikes! Although a game like that I would expect a hefty price. That's about $110. Not bad really, but still quite a bit! (But then again, look at all the stuff you're getting!)

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